Published on December 6, 2019
Published on December 6, 2019

Ogai strolled through Tokyo, and described those views in his novels.

Views of Tokyo, "Theatres Shows at Asakusa" (1910, Issued by Shobido, Owned by the National Diet Library)
The watchtower of Ryoun-kaku, which was called Asakusa Junikai and collapsed due to the Great Kanto Earthquake in 1923, is seen in a picture of the Asakusa District No. 6 area (the present Asakusa 1-chome area) with many movie theaters and playhouses.

  The Ueno, Asakusa and Yanesen (Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi) areas, in which Ogai had lived until he died at the age of 60 after he came to Tokyo at 10, were familiar places for him to stroll, spend leisure time with his family, and work. We can know what he did in those places through his literary works and essays written by his family.


"Tokyo Hogan-zu," a map charted on graph paper, devised by Rintaro Mori(Ogai Mori) (Issued by Shunyo-do in 1909)
Ogai took pleasure in collecting old maps, and devised a map of Tokyo. The map charted on graph paper was rare at that time. Koizumi, a protagonist in the novel "Seinen" walked around Tokyo with the aid of this map.
 
 

Following Ogai's footsteps in the Ueno area

 

Seiyoken

A restaurant where Ogai used to dine with his children. Ogai believed in German hygienics, and thought of food with sauces as unhygienic, so he regularly ate clear soup, steak, roast or cold beef, vegetable dish and pudding, and had coffee. I the novel "Seinen," there are descriptions of people who had a salad and coffee. [the present Ueno Seiyoken]
 

Teikoku Bijutsuin

Ogai served as the first director of Teikoku Bijutsuin from 1919 to 1922. [the present Japan Art Academy]
 

Imperial Museum

Ogai also served as the second president of Imperial Museum from 1917 to 1922. His second daughter Annu talked about a memory of spending time with her father at that time. [the present Tokyo National Museum] (a picture postcard issued in 1912)
 

Picture postcard issued in 1912
 

Ueno Zoological Gardens

Ohgai used to take his children to the zoo.
 

Taken in 1932
 

Hirokoji

There was a train station, and Ogai described the bustle of it in "Gan" and "Seinen." [the present Ueno Hirokoji]
 

The end of the Meiji Period
 

Doho-cho

A town where Otama, a heroine in "Gan," had her hair dressed. In "Vita Sexualis," geisha girls in Doho-cho and Sukiya-cho were called. [the former name of the town]
 

Matsunaga-cho

Suezo, a character in "Gan," went shopping in this town. It is said that there was a grocery shop called Kitazumi at that time. [the former name of the town]
 

Nakakachimachi

Suezo in "Gan" also went shopping in this town. [the present Naka Okachimachi (written in different Chinese characters)]

 

Iyomon

A high-class Japanese restaurant that was located in Nkamachi 2-chome, Aoishi-yokocho, at that time. Soseki Natsume and Taikan Yokoyama also dined in this restaurant. Ogai's eldest daughter Mari wrote about several anecdotes happened in the restaurant, such as that she attended a marriage ceremony of her uncle, wearing a kimono that was selected by Ogai. This restaurant also appeared in "Gan" and "Vita Sexualis." [no longer extant]
 

Nakamachi

Okada, a student appeared in "Gan," strolled along this street on a daily basis. A girl appeared in "Gan" also went to buy fish in this shopping street. [the former name of the town]

Dashigara-ya

A store appeared in "Gan," which sold tooth powder that was rare at that time. The palindrome of the store, saying "Dashigara-ya Sakasani Yomeba Yarakashita," was famous. [no longer extant]
 

Fukinuke-tei

A vaudeville theater located in Shitaya. Rakugo comic storytellers, such as Encho Sanyutei, performed in the theater at that time. The theater was introduced as a regular theater for ballad dramas in "Tokyo Hyakujiben" published in 1890. [no longer extant]
 

Jusan-ya

A comb store. There is a description in "Gan" that only three stores, that were, Rengyoku-an, Jusan-ya and a Japanese cracker shop, ran businesses around there at that time. Kimiko, a sister of Ogai, wrote in "Ogai no Omoide," or memories of Ogai, that she visited the store to buy something. [the present Jusan-ya comb store]
 

Rengyoku-an

A long-established soba restaurant that Ogai used to dine in. This restaurant also appeared in novels by Ichiyo Higuchi and Shoyo Tsubouchi. How a character ate soba noodles was described in "Gan." [the present Rengyoku-an]
 

Sukiyamachi

Sukiyamachi was described as a red-light district in "Gan" and "Vita Sexualis." According to "Tokyo Gijo" published in 1883, besides Yanagibashi and Shinbashi, Sukiyamachi was a first-class red-light district. [the former name of the town]
 

Mitsuhashi Bridge

In "Vita Sexualis," a character crossed the bridge when returning to Kosuge. It is said that there was a triple bridge across the Shinobu River near an intersection of Chuo and Shinobazu Streets. [no longer extant]
 

Ogaisou

A former residence of Ogai Mori. Ogai lived in this residence from 1889 to 1890, and published literary works, including "Omokage," "Maihime" and "Utakatano-ki." [the present Suigetsu Hotel Ogaisou]
 

Toshogu

Scenes in which characters strolled around the this area were depicted in "Gan" and "Seinen." [the present Ueno Toshogu]
 

Taisho Period
 

Hanazono-cho

In "Gan," the protagonist and Okada frequently visited this town. They also called Ogaisou "a house in Hanazono-cho." [the former name of the town]
 

Shichiken-cho

In "Gan," Suezo avoided this town when going to a house of his mistress because maids and his children lived in the town. [the former name of the town]

 

Kaya-cho

In "Gan," characters went through this town when secretly bringing wild gooses that they caught at Shinobazuno Pond, which was the prohibited game at that time, back to their boardinghouse. [the former name of the town]
 

Muenzaka

A slope ascending to Yushima from Ikenohata which was a setting for "Gan" and Otama, a mistress, lived in.
 

Shinobazuno Pond

One of walking courses which Okada, a medical student appeared in "Gan," strolled along. It was also one of the important settings for the novel.
 

The end of the Meiji Period
 

Ueno Park

It appeared in "Seinen" and "Gan."
 

Taisho Period
 

Iwasaki-tei

Although this residence appeared several times in "Gan" as a landmark in the neighborhood, its stone wall was not repaired at that time. [the present Kyu-Iwasaki-tei Garden]
 

Gen-ichiro Fukuchi

A celebrity who appeared in "Gan." He was active as a writer, journalist and politician. He also named himself Ochi Fukuchi. His residence was called "Ikenohata Goten," or palace in Ikenohata, and he was also called "Ikenohata no Gozen," or noble in Ikenohata.
 

Ueno Station

Koizumi, a protagonist in "Seinen," got on a train bound for Ueno from Shinbashi Station. Ueno Station, established in 1883, have been crowded as a terminal station since those days.
 

Taken in 1955
 

Izuei

An eel restaurant established in the mid-Edo Period. Many celebrities, including Ogai and Jun-ichiro Tanizaki, dined in this restaurant. [the present Izuei]
 

Matsugen

In "Gan," Otama met Suezo in this Japanese-style restaurant. In "Vita Sexualis," the restaurant appeared as a party venue for Kanei, a protagonist, who graduated from a college. It is said that a windmill ornament placed in front of the entrance was particularly famous. [no longer extant]

 

Gan-nabe

A restaurant that appeared in "Gan." The restaurant name was derived from the fact that a wild goose ornament was displayed at the entrance. [no longer extant]
 

Agedashi

A tofu dish restaurant in Ikenohata, which Ogai dined in with his children. The restaurant was also known as Gentaro Koito's (a Western-style painter) parents' house. [no longer extant]
 
(continued in the upper right column)

Visiting the Yanaka area

 

Kosho-zan Kanoji Temple

There is a tomb of Chusai Shibue, a doctor in the late Edo Period who appeared in Ogai's novel "Chusai Shibue," in this temple.
 

Hatsune-cho

A boardinghouse of Koizumi, a protagonist in "Seinen," existed in this town. [the former name of the town]

 
Kancho-ro

Ogai's former residence in Sendagi (Bunkyo City, Tokyo), in which he lived after moving out of Senda Sanbo. [the present Bunkyo City Mori Ogai Memorial Museum]
  

Senda Sanbo

A residence that Soseki Natsume and Ogai lived in. It was located near Kancho-ro. [the present site of Soseki Natsume's former residence]
 

Negishi

Ogai once mingled with "Negishi-to," a group of friends. In "Seinen," there was a residence of Mrs. Sakai in this town. In "Vita Sexualis," a scene in which a character went through Negishi from Ueno, and headed for Yoshiwara was depicted.
 

Akisada

A secondhand shop that appeared in "Vita Sexualis." It was located in Minowa (Minowa, Taito City). [no longer extant]
 

Visiting the Asakusa area

 

Imado no Watashi

A ferry that connected Matsuchiyama and a site near Mukojima. In "Vita Sexualis," Kanei, a protagonist, crossed a river on the ferry when returning from Yoshiwara. Kafu Nagai recalled in his short story "Mizu no Nagare," or flow of water, that a view around the site was elegant at that time. [no longer extant]
 

Hashiba no Watashi

A ferry that was located near the Shirahige Bridge at that time. In "Vita Sexualis," Kanei went through Saruwaka-cho from Asakusa, crossed a river on "Hashiba no Watashi," and returned to his home in Mukojima. "Hashiba no Watashi" was the oldest recorded ferry across the Sumida River. It is said that Ariwara no Narihira, a poet in the Heian Period, also crossed the river on the ferry. [no longer extant]
  

Yoshiwara

A red-light district that was an important setting for "Vita Sexualis."
 

The end of the Meiji Period
 

Ezaki Photo Studio

Ogai brought Kimiko, his sister, to the studio to take her photographs, which were rare at that time. [no longer extant]
 

Asakusa

Ogai bought tea utensils and souvenirs at the Nakamise shopping arcade for Kimiko, his sister, after taking photographs at Ezaki Photo Studio. In "Vita Sexualis," a character visited Asakusa with his servant. It was established as Asakusa Park in 1873, and the Asakusa District No. 6 area was thronged as a show business district.
 

Taisho Period
 

Hanayashiki

An amusement park that Ogai used to visit with his children. [the present Hanayashiki]
 

Taken in 1935
 

Saruwaka-cho

In "Gan," there is a description that "Tebiki Chaya," a teahouse that introduced clients to prostitutes, in Saruwaka-cho, which was run by Mikawaya Rikizo, moved because Morita-za organized by Kanya Morita, a Kabuki actor at that time, opened in the town. Playhouses of Edo Kabuki were built side by side in the late Edo Period. [the former name of the town]
 

Mansei-an

A soba restaurant evaluated as the best in Asakusa for its refined appearance and sophisticated tasty soba. Mari, the eldest daughter of Ogai, wrote that she visited the restaurant with Ogai. [the present Mansei-an]
 

Guide to Tokyo (published in 1907, Owned by the National Diet Library)
Mansei-an was located behind Asakusa Shrine at that time.
 

Azuma Bridge

A bridge across the Sumida River, which appeared in "Hyaku Monogatari" and "Vita Sexualis." [the present Azuma-bashi Bridge]
 

Taisho Period
 

Asakusa Namiki-cho

In "Vita Sexualis," a scene in which a character strolled through the Azuma Bridge, Namiki and Nakamise was depicted. [the former name of the town]

 

Asakusa Okuyama

An entertainment district that was a setting for "Vita Sexualis."
 

Umaya Bridge

In "Hyaku Monogatari," a boat passed under this bridge when it went down the Sumida River.[the present Umaya-bashi Bridge]
 

Kame Seiro

A long-established Japanese-style restaurant located at Yanagibashi. This restaurant was a setting for "Yokyo," and also appeared as a venue for a year-end party in "Seinen." [the present Kame Seiro]
 

Yanagibashi

A red-light district that appeared in "Yokyo," "Hyaku Monogatari" and "Seinen." Yanagibashi had many restaurants, and was thronged as a first-class red-light district.[the present Yanagibashi]

References
Picture postcards in the Meiji, Taisho and Showa Periods (Owned by Taito City Shitamachi Museum)


"Tokyo Hogan-zu," a map charted on graph paper, devised by Rintaro Mori(Ogai Mori) (Issued by Shunyo-do in 1909)
Ogai took pleasure in collecting old maps, and devised a map of Tokyo. The map charted on graph paper was rare at that time. Koizumi, a protagonist in the novel "Seinen" walked around Tokyo with the aid of this map.
 
 

Following Ogai's footsteps in the Ueno area

 

Seiyoken

A restaurant where Ogai used to dine with his children. Ogai believed in German hygienics, and thought of food with sauces as unhygienic, so he regularly ate clear soup, steak, roast or cold beef, vegetable dish and pudding, and had coffee. I the novel "Seinen," there are descriptions of people who had a salad and coffee. [the present Ueno Seiyoken]
 

Teikoku Bijutsuin

Ogai served as the first director of Teikoku Bijutsuin from 1919 to 1922. [the present Japan Art Academy]
 

Imperial Museum

Ogai also served as the second president of Imperial Museum from 1917 to 1922. His second daughter Annu talked about a memory of spending time with her father at that time. [the present Tokyo National Museum] (a picture postcard issued in 1912)
 

Picture postcard issued in 1912
 

Ueno Zoological Gardens

Ogai used to take his children to the zoo.
 

Taken in 1932
 

Hirokoji

There was a train station, and Ogai described the bustle of it in "Gan" and "Seinen." [the present Ueno Hirokoji]
 

The end of the Meiji Period
 

Doho-cho (the end of the Meji Period)

A town where Otama, a heroine in "Gan," had her hair dressed. In "Vita Sexualis," geisha girls in Doho-cho and Sukiya-cho were called. [the former name of the town]
 

Matsunaga-cho

Suezo, a character in "Gan," went shopping in this town. It is said that there was a grocery shop called Kitazumi at that time. [the former name of the town]

 

Nakakachimachi

Suezo in "Gan" also went shopping in this town. [the present Naka Okachimachi (written in different Chinese characters)]

 

Iyomon

A high-class Japanese restaurant that was located in Nkamachi 2-chome, Aoishi-yokocho, at that time. Soseki Natsume and Taikan Yokoyama also dined in this restaurant. Ogai's eldest daughter Mari wrote about several anecdotes happened in the restaurant, such as that she attended a marriage ceremony of her uncle, wearing a kimono that was selected by Ogai. This restaurant also appeared in "Gan" and "Vita Sexualis." [no longer extant]
 

Nakamachi

Okada, a student appeared in "Gan," strolled along this street on a daily basis. A girl appeared in "Gan" also went to buy fish in this shopping street. [the former name of the town]
 
(continued in the upper right column)

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Copyright© Taito City All Rights Reserved